This week, image consultant Kimberly Law rounds up our pocket square mini series with Puff Folds, which work best with silk squares because they drape easily and produce a less structured look. Silk handkerchiefs also come in a variety of colours and prints so it’s easy to create a variety of different looks that work well with suits, as well as sport coats.

The Puff (demonstrated in video)

Place the square on a flat surface
Grab the square by the centre
Pull it up so that the 4 corners are dangling
Fold the corners up about half way
Insert into the pocket

The puff is the most conservative of the three and may be worn for conservative or social occasions.

The Reverse Puff (demonstrated in video)

The reverse puff is produced the same way but you are showing the opposite end of the square.

Place the square on a flat surface
Grab the square by the centre
Pull it up so that the 4 corners are dangling
Draw your other hand down the flute to the midpoint
Fold the end about half way up
Insert into the pocket with the puff in back

The Dandy (demonstrated in video)

What I really like about this fold is that the end result looks like the Puff and Reverse Puff combined. This fold works really well with a print square.

Place the square on a flat surface
Grab the square by the centre
Pull it up so that the 4 corners are dangling
Draw your other hand down the flute to the centre
Fold the end about half way up
Insert into the pocket with the puff in front

This is a very popular fold right now, and of the folds we have demonstrated, this one if the most dynamic.

To learn more about Kimberly Law, click here.

This week, our image consultant Kimberly Law demonstrates point folds with the two, three and four point folds.

Point folds work best with linen or cotton handkerchiefs.

They are stiffer than silk so they maintain their shape better.

Linen and cotton squares should be irregularly arranged and points shouldn’t appear mathematically exact or flattened.

For a crisper look, iron the handkerchief first.

2 Point Fold (demonstrated in video)

Place handkerchief on a flat surface
Fold to 4.5 inch square with points offset
Fold the left side towards the centre
Fold the right side towards the centre
Place in pocket and adjust

3 Point / 4 Point Folds (demonstrated in video)

Place handkerchief on a flat surface open with corner facing upward
Fold in half towards the top (corners off center for 4 point)
Fold left corner over to the right to create a point
Fold the right corner over the left to create a point
Depending on the width you may need to fold left and right sides again
Fold the bottom up
Place in pocket and adjust

Point folds appear structured and elegant. They work well for formal and conservative business occasions.

To learn more about Kimberly Law, click here.

Tune in next week when we will be talking about the Puff, Reverse Puff and the Dandy!

Because our Tie Knot series with personal image consultant Kimberly Law was so well received, we’ve decided to bring you another set of videos on men’s image and style: Pocket squares!

Since the late 19th century, all traditionally tailored men’s coats have featured an angled chest pocket to display a finishing touch. The best folded squares are those that don’t draw attention to themselves. Check out the video above to learn how this is done!

To learn more about Kimberly Law, click here. Read on for more tips on how to make the most out of pocket squares.

Shopping:

A white pocket handkerchief is the most versatile and the least expensive. It works well in business settings and for formal occasions as white shirts are most commonly used, but can also take you into more informal situations.

There are different opinions as to what size is best. They range from 12-18 inches but some say the best size is 16-18 inches.

The best pocket squares have rolled edges that are hand stitched.

Styling:

Pocket squares can be worn with or without a tie.

The trick is to have the square properly placed but nonchalantly placed at the same time. Pocket handkerchiefs and squares should appear effortless and unstudied.

Squares should be angled slightly outward towards the shoulder. This accentuates the V-shape of the upper body.

The amount of fabric showing is up to the wearer but less is more conservative, while more takes a little extra confidence to pull off. As a general guideline, the wider the lapel, the more fabric should be showing.

To avoid bulges, look for handkerchiefs made of a thin material. Smaller squares also create less bulge. Another option is to position it so that more fabric is sticking out of the pocket.

Coordinating:

Handkerchiefs should coordinate primarily with the shirt or tie. The best combinations are those that coordinate with similar shades but do not match exactly.

Ties and handkerchiefs work well in different textures. For instance, a silk tie with a linen handkerchief or a wool or linen tie with a silk pocket square.

Patterns should never be the same but colours should always coordinate. The pocket square should show some degree of contrast but should complement the clothing it is worn with.

The colour of the handkerchief should contrast the jacket.

White is the most versatile colour and can be worn with almost any colour. However, for a more conservative look or a truly elegant look, it works best with a white shirt.

Formality:

Solids are more formal than prints.

Flat and structured folds are more appropriate for conservative business settings.

For joyous occasions, any colour, print or fold is appropriate.

For formal gatherings like black-tie events, solid colours and tints are best.

For events of a more serious nature – such as funerals – subdued colours are called for. Whites, greys or simple solid colours that are not too flashy are all acceptable.

Today’s Video Feature: Flat Folds

These folds look particularly nice with a narrower tie and a narrower lapel and because they are more structured, they work best with a sturdier fabric like cotton or linen. There are several flat folds to choose from but the most popular ones are the TV Fold, the Architect and the Presidential Fold. The final look is similar for all of them.

Place the handkerchief on a flat surface.

The Presidential Fold:
Fold the square into quarters.
Open edges should be at the top and to the right.
Fold the left side toward the right side. The width should now be slightly less than the pocket.
Fold the bottom up just below the top.
Place in pocket.

The TV Fold:
Fold the square into quarters.
Fold the square diagonally into a triangle shape.
Fold the bottom left side point to the centre.
Fold the bottom right side point to the centre.
Turn the handkerchief upside down so the point is on the bottom and the smooth side is facing front.
Place the handkerchief into the pocket. The straight side will be visible.

These folds are very popular right now. They appear official and can take you from the boardroom to an evening on the town.

Next week, Kimberly will be demonstrating slightly more complicated “Point Folds,” so be sure to tune in!

Women are all about the details fellas. We notice the small tear that you’re trying to hide by rolling up your sleeves, whether you’ve starched that shirt or bothered to iron it, a bad shave or haircut, even when you’ve let your fingernails grow out past that acceptable length! We’re not saying that you need to get regular mani/pedi’s, but a little extra effort goes a long way, especially if you’re in search of that perfect someone.

Needless to say, most men could use a tip or two in the wooing department, which is why My Girlfriend and It’s Just Lunch teamed up for The Bachelor Makeover Contest, offering Vancouver bachelors the chance to win a potentially life-changing grand prize worth over $4,000 that includes a ‘home run’ makeover and a dream date for Valentine’s Day.

Well, West Vancouver’s Peter Weddigen was that deserving bachelor, seen here after the surprise announcement.

Unbeknownst to Peter, he was nominated by friend Len Chasten, along with his entire swim team! It’s Just Lunch’s Jacquie Brownridge and My Girlfriend’s Jill Hannan received no less than nine testimonials which attested to Peter’s rightful place as the bachelor of the year.

Peter is a total Tom Hanks,” said Len, “a solid citizen, nice guy, decent looking, totally responsible…[but] while every woman would love to marry Tom Hanks, they really want to date George Clooney, or Brad Pitt.”

Fellow swimmer Carole McClean wrote, “Peter is always ready to go out while the rest of the swim team are busy with family obligations. He needs obligations of his own!”

To see Peter’s full transformation, read on!

Included in Peter’s basket of goodies is a one-year membership to It’s Just Lunch, a professional dating service for busy Vancouver singles, as well as a ‘home run’ makeover by My Girlfriend Bachelor Stylist Jill Hannan. This meant a crash course on among many things, fashion and grooming. Dabbler tagged along for the lesson and here are the highlights from Peter’s makeover, along with tips that every man can benefit from. This will be followed by an assessment from dating expert Jacquie Brownridge, who has matched Peter with a very promising date for Valentine’s Day.

First Stop: Vancouver Spa – Spruce Body Lab (in Yaletown), a gender neutral and luxurious environment that integrates the best of therapeutic treatment clinics and indulgent day spas into an experience that leaves you rejuvenated and refreshed. We checked Peter in for a customized facial and brow wax, but click here for info on the many other services offered at Spruce.

“Incorporate a great day and night skin care routine! Go for a facial and skin analysis at Spruce, where a dedicated team of skin care professionals is on hand to provide you with a customized treatment. Based on in-depth Face Mapping (a Dermalogica exclusive), they can target your skin’s individual needs to give you unsurpassed results.”

“Also make sure to buy brands designed specifically for men. Such products are formulated especially for you so why not reap their benefits! Need more reason than to look younger?! All skin types need moisture and sunscreen. As skin ages, you need to incorporate anti-aging products into your everyday routine. You’ll soon see (and feel) why. Women appreciate good skin!”

Here are some specific examples, courtesy of Masc, a shop in Yaletown that offers men of all ages the tools and information necessary to maintain a healthy and well-groomed appearance in a simple no-fuss manner. Considering Peter’s very active and busy lifestyle, these suggestions can help return what years of outdoor sports has stripped away:

MD Skincare All-In-One Cleansing Foam: Use this face wash in place of soap for a deep-pore cleanse that won’t strip your skin of its natural moisture. The built-in toner will also balance your skin’s moisture levels as you wash. Use it in the morning while you shower, and in the evening before bed.

Malin+Goetz Vitamin E Face Moisturizer: This oil-free, residue-free moisturizer scientifically synthesizes natural vitamins E and B5 and soothing chamomile with absorbent fatty acids. It gently and effectively hydrates and ph balances all skin types, unlike traditionally greasy pore-clogging oils, for an intensely nourishing treatment, reducing epidermal irritation for the most sensitive of skin. After cleansing, apply a small amount of concentrated, absorbent moisturizer onto face. Use in the AM and PM.

Jack Black Intense Therapy Lip Balm: Enriched with superior skin conditioners and antioxidants, this emollient balm soothes and relieves dry, chapped, irritated lips. Unlike waxy sticks, it penetrates quickly to provide instant relief. Offers broad-spectrum sun protection with an SPF of 25; also guards against windburn and temperature extremes. Contains natural mint to help freshen breath. Apply to lips whenever they feel dry or chapped. Use 30 minutes before going out in the sun to protect against damaging UVA and UVB rays. Winner of the 2007 Esquire Magazine Grooming Awards.

Next Stop: Headspace Hair Salon in Yaletown

Yes yes dear readers, we’re not blind to the obvious. Peter’s hair is much too short for anything drastically different. That being said, it doesn’t hurt to do some touch-ups to finesse the ends for an extra tidy look.

“For those men out there with particularly fine or thinning hair, you may want to consider shaving it off or cutting it extremely short, just as stylist Hieu from Headspace has done for Peter. There’s no point in hanging on to a few hairs; this is not attractive. Besides, women love bald heads…we think they’re sexy, so go for it! You can grow facial hair instead, such as a well-kept goatee.

And before you reach for that bottle of hair colouring, consider this: Salt and pepper hair is sexy and women love it. If you’re going grey, leave the Grecian Formula behind!

To enjoy a fuller head of hair, try the Bumble and Bumble Density Therapy line instead. These unique, synergistic formulas deliver nutrients to the scalp, reduce irritation, strengthens the root system, stimulates cellular energy and create a fertile environment for healthy growth.”

The Must Stop: Winners for all the fashion essentials, where you can shop countless name brands (such as Diesel, Calvin Klein, G-Star, Cole Haan, Kenneth Cole, Dolce & Gabbana to name a few) without paying name brand prices. We scoured the Park Royal Winners in West Vancouver, but do visit different locations as they each receive new (and different) shipments every week.

“Peter’s wardrobe was very outdated and old-fashioned. He was dating himself at least ten years with some of the items that we found in his closet! So guys, if you want to show women that you’re hip, in-the-know and care enough to look your best for them, keep an eye out for what the current fashions are!”

Check out what a great difference a few simple fashion upgrades can do for Peter’s appearance with this before and after comparison. They certainly give off very different first impressions, don’t they? Follow Jill’s advise on all the do’s and don’ts for him, or any man out there:

Jeans: Update them! Rid your closet of overly faded and baggy (specially around the derrière) blue jeans with a high waist, tapered legs and thin belt loops. Instead, buy a current style straight leg or boot-cut pair in a darker wash with subtle fading and wide belt loops. Tapered pant legs give you an upside down pear shape whereas a straight leg or a slight flare will balance you out from top to bottom…i.e. with your shoulders.

Pants: Stay away from pleats! Chances are they are tapered in the leg and high wasted – not a flattering look for anyone. Buy pants that are flat front with a straight leg. To find out if they are straight legged, simply fold the bottom of the pant to meet the knee. If it is narrower than the width of the knee, then it is tapered and not straight.

Black or Chocolate Brown Belt: Now that you have updated your jeans, you will need to update your belt. Chances are that if your jeans are outdated, so are the belt loops, which mean you’re wearing a thin dress belt to hold them up – again, not a good look. Neither is the one seen here. You need to buy a chunkier belt to fit the belt loops in your new jeans. Black or chocolate brown with a silver buckle will never go out of style and will be versatile with black or brown shoes.

Unbeatable Value: Peter’s Cole Haan black leather belt, which retails at $100, was purchased for $16 at Winners!

The All-Essential and Versatile White Dress Shirt: Every man needs a fabulous white dress shirt that fits his body. The rule here is that you shouldn’t be able to grab more than a hand-full of fabric at the back of any shirt (the “One Fist Rule”). Designer dress shirts are your best bet as they fit slimmer through the waist, giving you a more defined shape. Remember that they typically fit one size smaller, so don’t be afraid to go up a size. Wear it over a nice cotton T with a crew neck, buttoned up or unbuttoned with the sleeves rolled up for a more casual look, tucked in with a tie and sport coat or untucked.

Unbeatable Value: Normally tagged at $150, Peter’s G-Star white Oxford was nabbed for $44!

Polo Shirt: A thin-striped or plain coloured polo shirt in mercerized cotton is a great casual, weekend look. You want to make sure it is a slimmer fit through the body, once again using the One Fist Rule; you don’t want the shirt to be wider in the body than it is long. Wear this with your new jeans and a pair of trainers for kicking around on the weekend and out on coffee dates.

White Crew Neck T-Shirt: Every man needs a few white cotton crew neck T’s for underneath dress shirts and sweaters. Make sure that it hugs your body, without being too tight; you don’t want a lot of extra fabric here because you are going to be layering and don’t want the extra bulk, especially if you’re tucking in a shirt for a more formal look. They’re great under Oxford shirts for a more casual look and also to hide chest hair. You should have a few in your wardrobe and make sure to toss them when the armpits appear yellow.

Tie: Every man should have a spiffy blue 100% silk tie to wear with jeans and a white dress shirt. This adds a sophisticated look and takes you from day to night in a snap. Throw on a sport coat and/or sweater for another great look. Ties should be sophisticated and subtle – no loud or juvenile prints…Mickey Mouse and Wiley Coyote are out! Thinner stripes, small polka dots or a small pattern are fine.

Now that Peter’s ready for his date, let’s find out what his personal dating assistant, Jacquie Brownridge, managing partner at It’s Just Lunch has to say about our bachelor:

Symptoms: Peter has been busy building his career as a treasury consultant, which included a lot of travel up until recently. Whenever he wasn’t working or travelling, he was involved in numerous sports from hockey, to swimming, to snowboarding in the winter, and windsurfing in the summer. Throw in a few family excursions to a dude ranch, and there isn’t much time left for meeting eligible singles. Add to that the fact that most of his buddies are married or male, and that he’s not the type of guy that hangs out at a bar and you can through opportunity out the window as well. Peter is typical of a number of our clients. The reason he is still single at 43 is not due to any one “flaw” that can be pinpointed; he doesn’t have some weird quirky behaviour that has scared away all the eligible bachelorettes. Peter is a busy guy and that truly is the root cause of his bachelor status. He is extremely well-rounded and his interests range from gardening to dabbling in the arts and painting with acrylics. He is a member of the art gallery, is well versed in politics, and knows a bit about fine wine. His last serious relationship was with a long-distance love.

Dating Prescription: We looked into matching Peter with someone who is sporty, personable, intelligent, and looking forward to getting married and starting a family. Plus she has traditional values that match Peter’s.

We’ve selected someone who could be perfect for Peter. She’s super sporty and loves the water, which is a must where Peter is concerned. She also runs marathons, so she can keep up with Peter! She’s never been married, but looks forward to having a family some day. And the bonus: They both love dabbling with acrylics and both love dogs – and both note no cats on their profile. What are the chances of that?! Their first date is a romantic dinner tonight!

Potential Side Effects: A second date!

Best Taken With: An open mind, a smile and some fun! Peter will get the most out of his new approach to dating with IJL if he’s open to meeting lots of different people. We so often hear love stories from clients about how their best match was the one they least expected and totally against type. It’s all about attitude! She might not be the “one” but may introduce you to the “one.”

GOOD LUCK PETER!

It’s Just Lunch offers a fun, proactive approach to dating. The first date specialists, IJL arranges lunch dates and drinks after work for busy professionals in a discreet, no-pressure setting. Founded in 1991, the company now has locations all over the world, thousands of clients, and countless success stories. Everything is confidential; no photos or personal information goes online. Every client is met face to face by their personal dating assistant, who coordinates clients’ schedules and makes the reservations.

Contact Details:

It’s Just Lunch Directors for Vancouver, Whistler, Victoria, and the Fraser Valley:

Jacquie Brownridge
Karren Day
Christine Morela
Candace Neskar
t: 604.633.9980

Services also available in Calgary, Edmonton, and Toronto. For international contact info, visit www.ItsJustLunch.com.

My Girlfriend is the girlfriend behind every bachelor who hopes to ask a woman out, bring her home and have her spend the night rather than send her running. Founded by Jill Hannan, My Girlfriend’s mission is to reinvent men, one bachelor at a time. She targets the single, straight male who needs the help of a woman he trusts to bring him up to speed in terms of fashion, grooming, home décor and comforts, culture, food and wine. From flowers, a bottle of wine, and fresh ingredients in the fridge, to music, clean sheets, and a sparkling clean shower with all the right products, My Girlfriend advises Bachelors on the behind-the-scene details that truly matter.

Contact Details:

Jill Hannan t: 604.616.0197
Elise Craig t: 778.837.1950

If running down to the corner store to pick up a Durex 12-pack is your idea of prepping for a date that you hope will turn into a sleepover, then you are in dire need of Jill Hannan and Jacquie Brownridge’s expert advice. Click on the video above for a crash course on how to impress your dream date the first time you bring her home.

And just in time for Valentine’s Day, My Girlfriend and It’s Just Lunch have partnered to present The Bachelor Makeover Contest. One deserving bachelor will be getting the full treatment from My Girlfriend à la Queer Eye for the Straight Guy, PLUS a one year membership to It’s Just Lunch, complete with dating tips to help him find the woman of his dreams.

So here’s the official callout for all busy professional men who haven’t been actively dating in a long time but want to. Do you know a great guy who keeps getting overlooked by the women he wants to date because of his appearance and outdated style; plus he lives in a typical bachelor pad with a bathroom that screams ‘enter at your own risk’? Then nominate him (or yourself) today! (Deadline: January 18, 2008).

For some bonus dating tips, read on!

It’s Just Lunch Dating Etiquette:

1. Never ask someone out on a first date by email, instant messenger or text message. A phone call is always in order.

2. Emails relating to dating should be brief, upbeat and fun.

3. It’s ok to correspond using email regarding your plans for a date, where you will go, time etc., but always confirm the date by phone – it’s much more personal.

4. It’s always nice to hear from someone after a date. If you plan to see them again, a phone call and email is nice. If you are not planning another date, a short, nice email is appropriate.

5. Never discuss your personal life by email. Remember, emails can be forwarded or read by others (8% of singles have read their dates’ personal emails).

6. Don’t discuss friends you might have in common via email – especially anything negative.

7. If you’ve gone out with someone and they are not returning your emails, consider that person not interested. Don’t push and understand that he/she is probably not interested. Move on.

8. Don’t recap details about your date on email with your friends (22% of singles send personal emails on their work email account…remember your boss can read that).

9. If you are not interested in seeing someone again, don’t give out your email. Be straight forward at the end of the date and tell them there is no chemistry, but it was great meeting them.

10. Don’t give out a phony email address – that just isn’t a nice thing to do.

About It’s Just Lunch

Since It’s Just Lunch was founded in 1991, the company has arranged millions of fun, first date lunches or drinks after work – an atmosphere where singles can feel comfortable with the process of meeting a new person. With over 100 locations worldwide, IJL arranges hundreds of first dates each day at over 1,100 restaurants. With many introductions leading to second dates, It’s Just Lunch is the world’s leading first date authority.

Contact Details:

It’s Just Lunch Directors for Vancouver, Whistler, Victoria, and the Fraser Valley:

Jacquie Brownridge
Karren Day
Lindsay Northcott
Christine Morela
t: 604.633.9980

Services also available in Calgary, Edmonton, and Toronto. For international contact info, visit www.ItsJustLunch.com.

About My Girlfriend

My Girlfriend is the girlfriend behind every bachelor who hopes to ask a woman out, bring her home and have her spend the night rather than send her running. Founded by Jill Hannan, My Girlfriend’s mission is to reinvent men, one bachelor at a time. She targets the single, straight male who needs the help of a woman he trusts to bring him up to speed in terms of fashion, grooming, home décor and comforts, culture, food and wine. From flowers, a bottle of wine, and fresh ingredients in the fridge, to music, clean sheets, and a sparkling clean shower with all the right products, My Girlfriend advises Bachelors on the behind-the-scene details that truly matter.

Contact Details:

Jill Hannan
t: 604.616.0197

Elise Craig
t: 778.837.1950

Do you ever find yourself at your wit’s end trying to come up with a different outfit for work every day? For those of you who hate to shop, or don’t have the means to do so as much as you’d like, you need to replace the mismatched clutter in your closet with wardrobe capsules. As our image consultant Kimberly Law explains, all you need is six basic pieces to get a capsule started and this combination alone will save you an incredible amount of time and money while giving you more versatility with fewer pieces of clothing. Click on the video above to find out more!

To learn more about Kimberly Law, click here.

Until Mad Morten came along, I actually wasn’t aware that there was such a thing as a “resting position,” and a “finish position” for cutlery when dining. I’ve found such etiquette fascinating ever since and realized that these customs aren’t necessarily of use only in high society. As our personal image consultant Kimberly Law shows, no matter what kind of dinner party you hold, it helps you to be a better host when you know your guests are finished with their dishes and ready to move on without having to ask. I’ve found in my travels to Europe that they’re in regular practice and not reserved for fine dining. If you make it a habit of eating over the kitchen sink (I’m definitely guilty of that now and again), then these practices may seem a bit on the superfluous side, but give it a try; you may find that you enjoy this touch of sophistication and start eating this way instead. I did!

To learn more about Kimberly Law, click here.

As we wrap up our four-part tie knots series, personal image consultant Kimberly Law demonstrates the steps that make up a Pratt Knot (also called Shelby Knot).

After learning the other knots, you may find this one confusing because everything seems backwards; even the tie faces the wrong way when you first start off. Our model described it best: It’s a backwards Four in Hand. But the result looks somewhat different as it has a slightly wider top and is also a little more symmetrical.

To learn more about Kimberly Law, click here.

If you’d like to learn another tie knot, or just have a question or story idea in the realm of Image & Etiquette, send us an email! We may just feature it in a future segment.

Here’s the most highly regarded tie knot of all, and one which will never go out of style. It is perfectly symmetrical and substantial, giving its wearer a certain air of distinction that cannot be found in a comparatively flimsier tie knot like the The Four in Hand. If you place the two side by side, I’d be surprised you’d opt for the more basic choice.

As our personal image consultant Kimberly Law points out though, the Full Windsor is more appropriate for men with a medium to larger build. But if you’re on the slimmer side, you can still achieve this classy look by applying The Half Windsor instead.

To learn more about Kimberly Law, click here.

Don’t miss next week when we round up our Tie Knot series with the Pratt (also called Shelby) Knot

In part two of this series, personal image consultant Kimberly Law introduces a more classic tie knot called the Half Windsor. Unlike the Four in Hand, this knot is more balanced. I usually enjoy asymmetrical lines but when it comes to ties, I find the lopsidedness of the simpler one just plain annoying to look at…and everyone does it! Hopefully once you see how a Half Windsor is done, you’ll convert.

To learn more about Kimberly Law, click here.

If you like this tie knot, then you’ll love the Full Windsor, which will be featured next week so stay tuned!