March 19, 2008
Filed Under (Books, Food & Wine, Videos) by Angela Chih

When Mad Morten cooks (i.e. when I let him), you can be sure every pot and pan within reach will be “essential” in his “culinary masterpiece.” Were I in charge of dinner, the kitchen would be spotless and the cleanup a breeze. Granted, I use the take-out menus more than the spatulas but when free time is a luxury, I just don’t want to waste it on complicated and time-consuming food preparations. That’s why I’m drawn to cookbooks with titles like “One Pot Italian Cooking.” In it, Massimo Capra (of Restaurant Makeover fame) showcases authentic Italian cooking that makes the best use of a single saucepan, skillet, soup kettle or bowl. Recipes range from the very simple Risi e Bisi (Rice & Pea Soup) to the sublime Beef Braised in Barolo, and every one of them will draw cooks to the stove, eager to stir, serve and savour the tasty results. Colourful and flavourful, One Pot Italian Cooking features more than 100 recipes developed by a master chef for everyday home cooking. For sample recipes, read on!

Featured in the video:

Insalata Belga e Formaggio Verde
Belgian Endive, Roquefort, and Pecan Salad with Pear Vinaigrette

Makes 4 servings

Salad Ingredients:

8 oz (225 g) green beans
1 medium red onion
Salt and pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil, for seasoning
2 Belgian endives
1 bunch arugula (rocket)
2 Bosc pears, peeled, cored, and diced
8 oz (225 g) crumbled Roquefort cheese
4 tbsp (60 ml) toasted pecans or walnuts

Vinaigrette Ingredients:

1 Bosc pear, peeled, cored, and diced
2 tbsp (30 ml) rice vinegar
6 tbsp (90 ml) light extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper

Directions:

Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).

Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add the green beans and cook until crisp-tender. Remove the beans and plunge into cold water to retain their colour. Set aside.

Cut the onion in half crosswise and season with salt, pepper, and olive oil. Bake until tender, about 20 minutes. Set aside to cool, then cut into wedges.

Separate the endive leaves and mix with the arugula (rocket). Add the cooked green beans, onion wedges, pear, Roquefort, and pecans or walnuts.

For the vinaigrette, blend the pear, rice vinegar, olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste in a blender at high speed. Pour over the salad, toss well, and serve.

The risotto variation is one that Massimo came up with on the spot, showing just how easy it is to create wonderful dishes with ingredients that you have left over from other dishes. Whether it’s a pinch or a handful of any ingredient is completely up to your taste buds, but here are a few tips when it comes to making proper risotto:

For risotto, never use anything but Italian rice. In the video, Chef Capra uses Carnaroli, but other varieties include Arborio, Baldo, and Vialone Nano. Italian rice is a rounder, thicker grain of rice that actually comes from the Japanese rice family and has been cultivated to retain certain characteristics that are ideal for risotto. For instance, you’ll find that Italian rice is much starchier and best eaten al dente. The most important thing is not to under- or over-cook the rice – always follow the directed cooking time that’s always on the box. There’s a saying in Italy: “Risotto doesn’t wait for people. People wait for risotto!” So if you don’t have at least 15 minutes set aside to make your risotto, make something else!

In a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat, sweat any onions, garlic etc in some vegetable oil first, then add the rice and toast it, stirring constantly to prevent sticking, for 2 – 3 minutes, until it is very hot but not browned. Pour in the wine (if you so choose to use) and simmer until the liquid is absorbed or evaporate. Add enough warm chicken stock to cover the rice; simmer until the rice has absorbed most of the liquid, stirring frequently to prevent sticking. Continue to add the stock, a ladleful at a time, letting the rice absorb most of the liquid before adding more, until the rice is tender but firm. Be careful toward the end not to add too much stock – the risotto should be creamy, not soupy. This process should take 16 – 18 minutes in total.

Even when making a seafood risotto, you’ll find that a light chicken stock works better than fish stock which has a distinctively more pungent aroma. Chicken stock makes the rice creamy and accentuates the flavours of the other ingredients, rather than masking them.

In case you’re wondering from the video, risotto “all’onde” means “wavy,” describing the looseness in the texture of the risotto.

A different kind of risotto

Risotto al Cioccolato
Chocolate Risotto

This may seem strange at first, but – trust me! – everyone loves it. Chocolate risotto is a luscious version of chocolate rice pudding. It’s the perfect end to a meal that doesn’t contain too much starch.

Makes 4 servings

Ingredients:

2 tbsp (30 ml) unsalted butter
1 cup (250 ml) vialone nano or other risotto rice, unwashed
1 vanilla bean, split
2 tbsp (30 ml) rum
2 cups (500 ml) water
1 cup (250 ml) milk
1/2 cup (125 ml) heavy cream
1/2 cup (75 ml) white sugar
1 tsp (5 ml) grated orange zest
1 tsp (5 ml) grated lemon zest
1/2 lb (125 g) dark chocolate, chopped

Directions:

Melt the butter in a saucepan over very high heat. Add the rice and stir continuously until the rice is very hot but not browned. Add the vanilla bean, rum, and water; cook until almost all the liquid has evaporated.

Add a small amount of the milk and stir until it has been absorbed by the rice. Continue to add the milk in small amounts until it has all been absorbed and the rice is cooked. This process will take 15 – 18 minutes in total.

Remove the pan from the heat and add the cream, sugar, orange and lemon zest, and chocolate. Stir well to incorporate all the ingredients. Serve at once.

Buon Appetito! ~Massimo Capra

About the Author:

Massimo Capra was born in Cremona, Italy. He began his culinary career in the kitchen of the family farmhouse, with his mother and father as his teachers. His earliest memories were of the grassroots variety – fresh, local ingredients prepared simply and with love. Capra is an advocate of organic foods and he avoids fusion cuisine, or what he calls “confusion cooking,” in favour of honest flavours that complement each other.

Chef Capra co-owns Mistura restaurant in Toronto, where he is famous for his risottos and the braised lamb ribs which are always on the menu. He lives in Toronto with his wife and two sons.

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