April 09, 2008
Filed Under (Image & Etiquette, Videos) by Angela Chih

Because our Tie Knot series with personal image consultant Kimberly Law was so well received, we’ve decided to bring you another set of videos on men’s image and style: Pocket squares!

Since the late 19th century, all traditionally tailored men’s coats have featured an angled chest pocket to display a finishing touch. The best folded squares are those that don’t draw attention to themselves. Check out the video above to learn how this is done!

To learn more about Kimberly Law, click here. Read on for more tips on how to make the most out of pocket squares.

Shopping:

A white pocket handkerchief is the most versatile and the least expensive. It works well in business settings and for formal occasions as white shirts are most commonly used, but can also take you into more informal situations.

There are different opinions as to what size is best. They range from 12-18 inches but some say the best size is 16-18 inches.

The best pocket squares have rolled edges that are hand stitched.

Styling:

Pocket squares can be worn with or without a tie.

The trick is to have the square properly placed but nonchalantly placed at the same time. Pocket handkerchiefs and squares should appear effortless and unstudied.

Squares should be angled slightly outward towards the shoulder. This accentuates the V-shape of the upper body.

The amount of fabric showing is up to the wearer but less is more conservative, while more takes a little extra confidence to pull off. As a general guideline, the wider the lapel, the more fabric should be showing.

To avoid bulges, look for handkerchiefs made of a thin material. Smaller squares also create less bulge. Another option is to position it so that more fabric is sticking out of the pocket.

Coordinating:

Handkerchiefs should coordinate primarily with the shirt or tie. The best combinations are those that coordinate with similar shades but do not match exactly.

Ties and handkerchiefs work well in different textures. For instance, a silk tie with a linen handkerchief or a wool or linen tie with a silk pocket square.

Patterns should never be the same but colours should always coordinate. The pocket square should show some degree of contrast but should complement the clothing it is worn with.

The colour of the handkerchief should contrast the jacket.

White is the most versatile colour and can be worn with almost any colour. However, for a more conservative look or a truly elegant look, it works best with a white shirt.

Formality:

Solids are more formal than prints.

Flat and structured folds are more appropriate for conservative business settings.

For joyous occasions, any colour, print or fold is appropriate.

For formal gatherings like black-tie events, solid colours and tints are best.

For events of a more serious nature – such as funerals – subdued colours are called for. Whites, greys or simple solid colours that are not too flashy are all acceptable.

Today’s Video Feature: Flat Folds

These folds look particularly nice with a narrower tie and a narrower lapel and because they are more structured, they work best with a sturdier fabric like cotton or linen. There are several flat folds to choose from but the most popular ones are the TV Fold, the Architect and the Presidential Fold. The final look is similar for all of them.

Place the handkerchief on a flat surface.

The Presidential Fold:
Fold the square into quarters.
Open edges should be at the top and to the right.
Fold the left side toward the right side. The width should now be slightly less than the pocket.
Fold the bottom up just below the top.
Place in pocket.

The TV Fold:
Fold the square into quarters.
Fold the square diagonally into a triangle shape.
Fold the bottom left side point to the centre.
Fold the bottom right side point to the centre.
Turn the handkerchief upside down so the point is on the bottom and the smooth side is facing front.
Place the handkerchief into the pocket. The straight side will be visible.

These folds are very popular right now. They appear official and can take you from the boardroom to an evening on the town.

Next week, Kimberly will be demonstrating slightly more complicated “Point Folds,” so be sure to tune in!

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3 Responses to “Pocket Squares I: Flat Folds”

  • you are cool. i love watching you

  • While I appreciate your demo for those not yet initiated into the simple pleasure of the pocket square, I fear some may not understand its purpose. Aside from that dash of panache, a pocket handkerchief should also serve the purpose of being a handkerchief. This means it ought not to look like more than one minute of work, and should never be treated like an evil step-sister’s foot and rammed into your outside breast pocket with a shoe horn. It is okay to adjust, as practice makes perfect and effort breeds elegance, but the aim is to make it look effortless. Even with the TV or Presidential fold, one should avoid creasing the edges or flattening them down, or you may as well throw out the fabric altogether and use the cardboard backing that came with it!

  • To aRTie: seriously I don’t see you making any videos like this… and for such a pretentious guy you think you would have some common sense and at least have a back up for such a flat argument! Great video! It would be a pleasure to be served by you in any gentleman’s store.

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